The A, B, C & E of Skincare
I’ve been eyeing the Profiling Kit from Alpha H for years, but it took some hyping of the Vitamin B serum on Instagram for me to give it a serious look. Since I also needed a new vitamin C serum and wanted to test out Ethylated Ascorbic Acid, I saw a good opportunity to get this set.
The Profiling Kit includes four serums, each with a specific focus. Originally, each serum contained 25ml, but the new kit offers 15ml now 10ml. You can buy them separately in full size (25ml) for about the same price as the kit. All serums are fragrance-free. I’m unsure about the new set, but the old one came with a profiling routine wheel, targeting specific concerns. A similar profiling can be found on Alpha H’s website if you’re curious to see all the recommendations.
A pamphlet is also included, describing all the serums and the philosophy of the A, B, C, & E. In it, it also says that the serums are not designed to be blended and that it is best to use them individually for optimal results. The only serum that seems to ok to layer or layer with others is the Vitamin E serum – it says on the bottle that you can mix a few drops with your moisturizer.
I mention this because I read a few negative reviews about the serums’ effectiveness when mixed. I agree that the information about not mixing them isn’t very obvious, but it is there and something to keep in mind.
Vitamin A – Anti-Ageing
Active ingredients: Encapsulated Retinol 0.5% + Retinyl Propionate
Recommended for nighttime use, this serum also contains a hydrating blend of squalane, evening primrose, jojoba, sweet almond, and macadamia seed oils to combat the drying effects of retinol. It has a somewhat oily texture but sinks in without feeling greasy or overly moisturizing. Like most retinoid products, it has a yellow tint. A little goes a long way; two to three drops are all that’s needed for the face and neck.
I’ve been using it between one and three times a week, and even after six months, I still have a third of the bottle left. The reason for not using it nightly is that I rotate my retinol with chemical exfoliants, which can easily irritate my skin.
The first two times I used this, I woke up with slightly dry and dehydrated skin. However, I haven’t experienced that issue since, so it might have just been my skin at the time. Compared to other retinol serums I’ve tried, this one doesn’t seem as effective in providing overnight results. My skin feels only slightly softer and calmer, lacking the plumpness, youthfulness, and smoothness I experience with others. I know that retinol works slowly and that benefits come with continued use, but even after six months, I’m not completely sold on the results compared to other serums I’ve tried. This doesn’t mean you won’t be impressed by it, though.
If you are using any strong exfoliants along side, this retinol it may come off as strong. Always be cautious when using acids and retinol, regardless of their strength. A trick to mitigate dryness is to mix a few drops of Vitamin E with your nighttime moisturizer.
Conclusion
I find it quite comparable with the First Aid Beauty 0.25% Retinol (review), despite being double the strength. It’s on the milder side but can cause irritation if not used correctly. The Alpha H serum uses encapsulated retinol, which is slowly released during the night to combat irritation. For acne, I didn’t find this serum as effective as others I’ve tried. It requires patience, and the oils may be an issue for some. However, it does help maintain skin balance for those with mild to moderate issues. When used with the other serums in this kit, I noticed fewer breakouts and a more even complexion.
Overall I find the Alpha H Vitamin A 0.5% serum excellent for anyone between 25-30 years old who is just starting to see the first signs of aging. It’s a gentle retinol that delivers results more slowly than some others I’ve tried.
Since I know of better retinol serums for my skin, I wouldn’t necessarily repurchase this one alone. I preferred the FAB retinol over this one. However, it complements the other serums in the kit well, and I would consider giving it another go if I ever repurchased this kit again.
Vitamin B – Build Moisture
Active ingredients: Niacinamide + Copper Tripeptide
The Alpha-H niacinamide serum is enhanced with copper tripeptide, giving it a cool blue hue. Copper peptide is beneficial for maintaining normal immune function, collagen synthesis, and reducing inflammation. I couldn’t find any official information on the percentages of copper or niacinamide used. One blogger claimed it contains at least 5% niacinamide, which seems plausible based on the ingredient list, but there is no confirmation from the company.
In addition to niacinamide and copper tripeptide, the Vitamin B serum includes hydrating ingredients like chia seed oil, sodium PCA, B5, ferulic acid, hyaluronic acid, and lactobacillus ferment. These help to strengthen, repair, and protect the skin barrier. The serum has a liquid gel-like texture typical of most hydrating serums. Due to the copper peptide, it has a faint smell reminiscent of hot dogs, but it is not overpowering and fades quickly.
I was most excited to try this serum and can happily report that it did not disappoint! However, I found it to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than providing hydration. Despite the hype around copper peptide, I’m not entirely convinced of its necessity in this serum.
Conclusion
I’ve tried three different serums with copper peptide, and none have made a significant positive difference to my skin, unlike the experiences of others. Personally, I haven’t noticed much benefit, except for a slight increase in facial hair, which is one of the drawbacks. Copper peptide can also be tricky to use, as it doesn’t pair well with other active ingredients like vitamin C and should not be used with retinoids, according to some sources.
Despite this, I would consider repurchasing it, even on its own. It’s a good, well-balanced hydrating and barrier-repairing serum. However, it’s important to note that because of the copper peptide, it’s best used as a stand-alone serum and not mixed with other actives. Ideally, I think this serum would be better without the copper peptide, focusing more on niacinamide and other hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients. Just my opinion.
Vitamin C – Clarity Enhancing
Active ingredients: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid + Grapeseed Extract
Ethylated Ascorbic Acid (ELAA/EA/EAC) is the new kid in the subcategories of Vitamin C. What’s great about it is that it’s very close to the molecular weight of actual Vitamin C, but offers much better stability in both oil and water than pure Ascorbic Acid. According to the pamphlet from Alpha H, our skin cells can convert 89% of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid into L-Ascorbic. If you think it will replace pure LAA, you’re getting your hopes up as the results aren’t as immediate; it takes a while to notice an effect.
Alpha H doesn’t disclose what percentage of ELAA they use in the Vitamin C serum, and I’m afraid to guess. Most popular serums with ELAA are in a waterless formula, this one isn’t. The serum also contains Sodium Hyaluronate and brightening Licorice extract. The texture reminds me very much of Paula’s Choice C15. I’m not super fond of watery serums, I find them to be a bit difficult to apply. It says 2-3 drops, but that didn’t feel sufficient to cover my face and I didn’t notice an effect. I then started to take more, like it was an essence. It felt very wasteful. But that’s when I started to see and feel actual results.
Conclusion
I never truly saw any super brightening or fading effect on red acne spots with pure Ascorbic Acid. In my opinion, retinol and AHAs are much better in that department. I also never seemed to be able to finish a bottle of LAA in time before it started oxidizing. So to me, ELAA is a much better fit for my expectations and use.
The Alpha H Vitamin C serum doesn’t brighten or even the skin as effectively as the pure version (if it ever did). At least not this serum – don’t know about those with a higher percentage. However, as an antioxidant just like LAA, I found it to make my skin feel softer, less bumpy, and decreased the number of blackheads on my skin. I also find it to be less irritating than pure vitamin C.
ELAA is being used more and more because of its high stability. It can be found from as much as $118 (Allies of Skin) to as little as $18 (The Ordinary), and Summer Fridays offer ones too. I wouldn’t necessarily repurchase this one from Alpha H. But don’t mind using it if I ever buy the kit again.
Vitamin E – Emergency Repair
Active ingredients: Encapsulated Vitamin E + Macadamia Seed Oil
This serum promotes soothing and skin repair. It’s a water-based oil serum, that also includes nourishing almond and evening primrose oil. Out of all the four serums, I’m actually most inclined to repurchase this one alone.
What makes Alpha H Vitamin E serum stand out is that it’s water-based compared to other oil and vitamin E serums. So it feels more penetrative and doesn’t leave the skin feeling oily. It’s not your regular tocopherol oil either, Alpha-H uses Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (DLTP) which is primarily used to treat diaper rash, underarm irritation, shaving irritation and works wonderfully to decrease redness.
Vitamin E is also the only serum out of the four that can be applied together with the other serums without causing issues. It’s well paired with Vitamin A to counteract dryness, will boost softness and antioxidant protection with Vitamin C, and add an extra boost of hydration to Vitamin B. Or could be used alone or with a few drops mixed with your moisturizer when your skin is feeling distressed.
Conclusion
If your skin is feeling dry or irritated this serum is your best friend. I find it to be very nourishing without feeling heavy. My favorite use for it has been to boost hydration but also help speed up the healing after acne marks. Especially if I popped a pimple, I’ll even use it as a spot treatment, as vitamin E is good for preventing scarring.
Conclusion | ★★★★★
Overall, I wouldn’t mind getting this set again considering what a great value it is compared to buying the serums separately. Even if getting similar serums from other brands, this is such a bargain!
UPDATE: While composing this review Alpha H has updated the kit and is in the process of renewing the packaging on the vitamin serums. The bottles in the kit are now reduced to 15ml instead of 25ml, but the price is also somewhat reduced.
All of the serums have beautiful textures I must say! None felt too sticky or drying to me personally. If you don’t let the Vitamin E serum really sink in before putting your moisturizer on, your skin may feel quite moist though. But neither of the serums causes your moisturizer or makeup to pill. They all feel very high quality. The effectiveness of the serums may vary from person to person. If you’re an actives-veteran you might not see a huge effect on your skin with some of these. Then again, this set feels more made for people in their 20s and early 30s that just got into skincare.
If I had to choose the ones I genuinely liked the best and would consider purchasing a full size, it’s the Vitamin E and B serum. I found the two to be unique enough to spend my money on. My least favorite is the retinol serum as I have other ones in mind that I feel performs better when it comes to anti-acne and youthfulness effect. It’s just missing something I feel. But like I said, if you’re just starting out (or have sensitive skin), it may be a good option!
This kit makes a great gift or an introductory to actives for anyone in their 20s who wants to step up their skincare game without it being too complicated. These serums are the perfect supplement to your cleanser, moisturizer, and chemical exfoliant. The profiling wheel is helpful to customize your routine to suit your skin’s needs and what you like to target for the day. Ever since I started living by its recommendation and sticking to the same products, my skin has gotten better and better! I could not be more satisfied with my purchase!
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