SK-II is a high-end luxury skincare brand that has remained on my radar for over a decade, particularly their iconic Pitera Facial Treatment Essence. Like most, I’ve tried some of the “dupes” available, but always harbored a secret desire to experience the authentic product someday.
Fast forward to 2024, and SK-II still remains elusive in Europe. Therefore, during my trips to Malaysia, where SK-II is more accessible and affordable for international visitors, I made it a priority to get a SK-II Pitera discovery set. On my first trip, I purchased the SK-II Pitera Power Kit, now known as Youth Essentials, at the SK-II counter in Parksons (apartment store similar to Macy’s). On my subsequent visit, I couldn’t resist buying another set, especially after discovering that tourists receive an additional 5% discount at Sephora MY. At just 325RM (-5%), the kit seemed like a steal, considering it’s approximately 30% cheaper than in other countries!
Contents
- About SK-II
- SK-II Pitera Facial Treatment Cleanser
- SK-II Pitera Treatment Essence
- SK-II Skinpower Essence Serum
- SK-II Skinpower Airy Milky Fluid / Advanced Airy Cream
- Conclusion
About SK-II
What may attract consumers to the brand is its simplistic approach to skincare. Unlike many other luxury or mainstream brands, SK-II offers a remarkably streamlined and minimalistic product range. In fact, SK-II focuses primarily on two main product lines, and offers a total of around 16 products. This approach echoes Drunk Elephant’s philosophy of dismissing traditional skin type categorizations. SK-II doesn’t explicitly state this though, as they offer two versions of their Skinpower Advanced Cream to suit different skin types. Yet, beyond these options, most products in their range appear to be designed for a broad spectrum of skin types and ages.
The star ingredient is Pitera, which is essentially a yeast extract known as Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate. All SK-II products feature this proprietary blend, with their LPX Ultimate line—targeted at mature skin—containing the highest concentration.
The SK-II Youth Essentials Discovery Kit
SK-II offers three affordable discovery sets that I recommend getting if you’re interested in the brand. One is the Youth Essential kit—the one I’ll be covering in this post. The kit includes the cult classic Pitera Facial Treatment Essence (75ml), the Face Wash (20g), and a deluxe sample of either the Skinpower Advanced Cream or Airy Cream (15g), depending on the region.
Then there’s the SK-II Aura Ultraura Skincare Kit—the brightening kit, where the moisturizer is swapped for the new Ultraura Essence (10ml).
I personally think you get more value (per milliliter) for your money by going with the Youth Essentials kit if you for some reason can’t get both. You get about 15ml of the moisturizer in comparison to 10ml of the serum.
The last “affordable” value kit is the Pitera First Experience Skincare Kit. It’s sort of your introductory set to the brand, in which you also get a deluxe trial-size Facial Treatment Essence (75ml). But instead of a wash and a moisturizer/serum, you’ll get the Facial Treatment Clear Lotion (30ml) and two sheet masks. If you buy all three kits you’re kind of getting the whole experience and the total of 225ml of the Pitera Facial Treatment Essence will last you a very long time!
SK-II Pitera Facial Treatment Cleanser
This cleanser features Pitera as its key ingredient, known for promoting a healthy, radiant complexion. It also contains BHA for gentle exfoliation, helping to smooth the skin’s texture. Finally, rosehip oil adds a nourishing touch, leaving the skin soft and hydrated after each use.
My Experience
I honestly didn’t expect much from this cleanser. From my experience with other expensive luxury cleansers, I thought it would either 1) sting my eyes and/or 2) leave my skin feeling squeaky clean and tight. However, this cleanser did neither!
It completely surprised me, and I quickly dismissed the $75 price tag—I found it totally worth it! This feels like a shocker, as I’ve never been the type to justify spending a lot on cleansers. But this one converted me; it’s now one of my absolute favorite foaming cleanser.
A Little Goes a Long Way
SK-II’s site mentions that a full-size bottle lasts about 90 days. But I believe you can get even more out of it, especially if you skip your morning cleanse. A tiny amount (think rice grain-sized) goes a long way. With that said, I find it works beautifully both in the morning and as a second cleanse in the evening.
Texture and Comparison
The texture, feel, and performance are strikingly similar to the Hada Labo Premium Whitening Face Wash (which I’ve reviewed here). However, the SK-II Facial Treatment Cleanser has a luxurious edge, likely thanks to its subtle, sophisticated fragrance. It creates a gentle foam that leaves the skin smooth, soft, and refreshed. While the Hada Labo cleanser isn’t a dupe, it’s a solid alternative if you don’t want to splurge yet experience similar texture.
Makeup Removal
I haven’t tested how well it removes makeup on its own since I always use an oil cleanser as my first step in the evening. SK-II offers a cleansing oil, so I’d assume the Facial Treatment Cleanser isn’t meant to fully remove heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own.
SK-II Pitera Treatment Essence
The crème de la crème of SK-II, their Pitera Facial Treatment Essence features a minimal ingredient list, with Pitera ferment as the standout ingredient, making up over 90% of the formula.
SK-II’s unique yeast-derived Pitera is said to enhance surface cell turnover. It also stimulates the skin’s natural production of hyaluronic acid and Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). This helps the skin maintain a healthy, youthful appearance.
My Experience
Before starting the SK-II Pitera Facial Treatment Essence, I planned to document the process thoroughly, including taking before and after photos over six weeks. I even captured some before-pictures when I had a small pimple, hoping to track visible results. However, after using the essence day and night for a few weeks, I realized that the differences were too subtle for the camera to pick up but noticeable to me.
Although sharing my experience feels less “official” without clear photographic evidence, it’s still valid. I must note that, aside from that small breakout at the start, my skin was already in fairly good condition, with minimal redness.
Immediate Impressions
I noticed within just three days of using the essence that my skin felt noticeably softer. Over time, my complexion appeared clearer, calmer, and any texture irregularities seemed to smooth out, at least from my own perspective. While the improvements were subtle, they were still evident to me.
Some people mention a pungent vinegar-like scent, but after using two bottles purchased from an official retailer, I can’t say the smell is bothersome. If the vinegar scent is strong, I’d suspect the product might be past its expiration date.
Application
One thing I struggled with, though, was the essence’s texture. I generally prefer applying essences and toners with my hands rather than a cotton pad to avoid wasting product. However, the Pitera Treatment Essence is very watery—essentially just like water—which makes it a bit fiddly to apply. I wish it had a bit more viscosity, similar to the texture of Shiseido’s new Eudermine Activating Essence, which would make it easier to apply and prevent it from slipping through the cracks of my hands.
Is it worth the hype?
Do I find this essence to be an absolute must-have in my routine? Not quite. When I skipped using it for a few days, I didn’t feel like my skin was crying out for it or noticeably lacking something. This could be because my skin is pretty well-balanced. However, I do believe in the long-term benefits of fermented skincare, and while I don’t feel the immediate need for it, I wouldn’t say I want to be without it entirely.
SK-II Skinpower Essence Serum
This serum targets large pores, fine lines, and boosts firmness, with key ingredients like niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol, and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.
I happened to acquire this secondhand after the previous owner mistakenly purchased it, believing it was fragrance-free. Since she couldn’t tolerate fragrance, she passed it on to me.
My Experience
I completely understand the previous owner’s concern—the scent is quite overpowering. It’s the same fragrance as the Skinpower Advanced Cream, but in serum form, it’s much stronger. If I didn’t know better, I’d almost think it’s more of a perfume than skincare. However, SK-II wouldn’t be as loved if it didn’t deliver, and deliver it does!
The texture is somewhat reminiscent of MAC Cosmetics’ serum (which I’ve sampled before). It applies smoothly, leaving my skin feeling soft and even, making it a great base for makeup. While it’s not especially hydrating on its own, it contains ingredients that help boost the skin’s ability to retain moisture over time.
Packaging and Usage
The packaging has a cool pipette feature that automatically refills when you screw the lid on, ensuring minimal air bubbles and dispensing just the right amount of product for face and neck. I’ve been a bit frugal, using about half a pipette per application as to not run out of it too fast. If used both morning and night a 50ml would last about 3 months I’m guessing.
Results
The SK-II Skinpower Essence Serum lives up to its promises. It delivers bouncier, softer, and plumper skin. I think it’s ideal as a one-and-done serum for someone in their late teens to mid-30s who has minimal skin issues. It absorbs quickly and is light enough to use as a prep serum. You can layer other serums on top if you want to add an extra step to your routine.
SK-II Skinpower Airy Milky Fluid / Advanced Airy Cream
SK-II offers two moisturizers: the Skinpower Advanced Cream, suited for normal to dry skin or for nighttime use, and the new Advanced Airy Cream, designed for normal to oily skin.
Recently, the Advanced Airy Cream underwent a name change and a slight formula update. While the core formulation remains similar, the key change is the replacement of Tropaeolum Majus Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract with Zantedeschia Aethiopica Flower/Stem Extract. Additionally, there’s a minor modification in one of the thickening agents. Despite these adjustments, both creams retain key ingredients like Pitera, white peony extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, niacinamide, xylitol, and panthenol. Overall, the cream boasts a well-rounded formulation enriched with intriguing flower extracts, in my opinion.
Having purchased two sets at different times, I have both the old and new formula. Personally, I find no noticeable difference in texture or performance. When doing a split test, I can’t discern any distinction between the two.
My Experience
The original name, “airy milky fluid,” perhaps describes the texture best. It effortlessly glides onto the skin, and a little goes a long way—a feature I appreciate given its luxury price tag. It bears resemblance to other fluids or emulsions, except it’s packaged in a jar.
Absorption and Skin Type
Designed for oilier skin types, it absorbs quickly, leaving the skin feeling a bit matte and dry, particularly in a climate like Sweden. This wasn’t the case when I used it in Malaysia; there, it felt like your traditional cream moisturizer—leaving the skin soft and hydrated.
Skin Barrier Benefits
What I love about J-Beauty is the focus on nurturing a healthy skin barrier, and this cream is no exception. While it occasionally felt insufficiently moisturizing for my skin, it undeniably leaves a smooth, soft, and healthy complexion. Since I regularly use a hydrating sunscreen on top, its lightweight texture hasn’t bothered me too much during colder weather.
Scent Considerations
One potential drawback of this face cream is its scent. I can see people with scent sensitivity either reacting to the fragrance or finding it off-putting. It’s quite strong and lingers at first before your brain eventually stops registering it. Although it’s not my preferred scent, the cream’s effectiveness outweighs its perfume-like qualities.
My Thoughts on the SK-II Skinpower Routine
If you prefer a no-fuss, minimalist skincare routine, SK-II is a brand that truly delivers. I appreciated how the brand simplifies the process, removing the guesswork of choosing products. With just two-three serums targeting different skin concerns and a moisturizer tailored to your skin type, everything else falls into place effortlessly.
It’s clear that SK-II places great confidence in their proprietary Pitera, positioning it as a well-rounded, all-in-one ingredient. According to the brand, Pitera addresses the same concerns typically tackled by retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide—essentially suggesting it can replace these products altogether.
Although I’ve noticed my skin becoming softer, more even, and brighter with this routine, I still prefer to use a retinoid and chemical exfoliant weekly. However, since incorporating high-end luxury skincare that focuses on strengthening the skin barrier, I’ve observed that over time, you become less reliant on retinoids and acids. When the skin barrier is healthy and functioning well, your skin behaves as if it’s younger.
Conclusion
I thoroughly enjoyed this routine and noticed significant improvements in my skin. It felt more resilient, softer, clearer, and less prone to breakouts. The biggest drawback for me wasn’t the price tag, but the fragrance in the serum and moisturizer. It’s a bit too pungent for my taste. Although I quickly adjusted to it, and it didn’t cause any irritation, it does make me hesitant to repurchase. There are other brands with similar qualities that offer gentler, more pleasant fragrances—like Shiseido, for example.
Airy Cream in Different Climates
Among the products, I’m a bit uncertain about the Airy Cream. While it worked well in hot and humid Malaysia, it has occasionally felt insufficient during Swedish winters. However, with the Treatment Essence and a hydrating sunscreen, it’s manageable. I’d still like to compare the Airy Cream to the regular Skinpower Advanced Cream someday, as I suspect it might be better suited to my skin and the colder Swedish climate. It makes sense that the Airy Cream is included in kits sold in Malaysia, where the climate is much warmer, but in some regions, the regular Skinpower Advanced Cream is offered instead.
The Pitera Facial Treatment Cleanser and Essence
Although the SK-II Pitera Facial Treatment Cleanser is a bit pricey, I can definitely see myself repurchasing it in the future. It creates a luxurious lather, leaving my skin feeling soft and renewed without stripping it. I also appreciate the subtle fragrance—it’s perfectly balanced and not too overpowering.
As for the Pitera Facial Treatment Essence, while I don’t consider it an absolute necessity for me, there’s something about it that makes me want to always keep it in my routine. When my partner made a third trip to Malaysia, I had him pick up another kit—this time the Aura Ultraura Skincare Kit. I’ll update this post with my thoughts on the Ultraura Essence Serum once I get the chance to try it.
Additional Tip
During my second trip, I was tempted by the Maison Kitsune Holiday Coffret. It included a full-size (230ml) Treatment Essence, along with travel-sized versions of the advanced cream, face wash, and clear lotion. The price was the same as the full-size Treatment Lotion (850RM). However, after some calculations, I found that buying three smaller kits for just 125RM more would give me approximately 225ml of the Treatment Essence, plus three times the face cream and face wash. Personally, I prefer quantity over a limited edition cover. Despite the temptation, I had already exceeded my budget and chose to buy just one kit per visit. This tip might be useful for anyone considering an SK-II value set.