In my last post, I briefly mentioned the brands that the clinic wanted me to use in conjunction with the chemical peel as a post-treatment. I kindly said I would consider their products and ask for the price and a brochure. I’ve then made my own research and here are my thoughts about it and my search for a natural alternative.
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The lady at the clinic strongly recommended me to use a cream from the Italian brand called Synchroline within its Terproline-products for aging skin, as well as the AkniCare kit from the same brand, or one from their sister brand Tebiskin. Both brands are medically licensed, in their words meaning: they get to have a more potent and stronger formula.
I couldn’t find much information on Tebiskin; it doesn’t seem to have a website, resellers only list key ingredients, and for all good I know, the products are at least perfume-free. But I’m always on the fence to use products that make it a chore to find their ingredient list!
EDIT: I talked with my facialist about this and she said that Tebiskin is a new brand that just came out this December and they only want to work with clinics. Still no excuse to not list the inci of products, but may explain why the inci is hard to find and only exposed to some products.
And I did eventually buy the Tebiskin EGF cream, as I saw it on sale.
The Aknicare cleanser the lady at the clinic wanted me to get doesn’t seem as impressive as the Dermalogica Medibac Clearing Cleanser I’ve used over two years and that I like a lot together with my Clarisonic. The Dermalogica cleanser is not completely green per say, but has an interesting mix of botanical extracts, has never dried out my normal/combination acneic skin type, and with that said, been the most gentle acne cleanser I’ve ever used coming from a medical brand. Though my 500ml bottle ran out a few months ago, and I haven’t been able to find one for the same price I got it for. I still highly recommend it, even though it’s not considered natural or green by the green beauty community, it has a pretty impressive green ingredient list though and is worth checking out if you have troubled skin.
EDIT: I’ve since writing purchased the Aknicare Cleanser and you can find my review here.
However, the two creams from Terproline she recommended as a healing aid for the peeling did spark some interest. The line is made to aging and dry skin, but also specifically created to be worked on skin before/after having an Enerpeel® treatment.
My mom is a sucker and would not think twice if a doctor recommended something to her, but because I felt like I got treated like an idiot at the consultation, I made sure to research these products thoroughly.
In the brochure this is what it said about the Terproline face cream:
“Terproline® Face Cream – A combined anti-aging day-/night cream with elasticity, firming and moisturizing properties. The cream strengthens the skin’s barrier functions and increases the skin’s resistance. Contours of the skin is strengthened and its youthful structure is preserved. Contains Hyaluronic acid, soy protein and plant herbs with traditions of Ayurvedic medicine.“
Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, Peptides, and Ayurvedic herbs.
Terproline Face Cream Ingredients: AQUA (WATER),PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER, STEARETH-2, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, GLYCERIN, STEARETH-21,CETEARYL ALCOHOL, DIMETHICONE, STEARIC ACID, CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE,MADECASSOSIDE, ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE, HYDROLYZED FIBRONECTIN, SORBITOL, PEG-4PROLINE LINOLENATE, CERAMIDE 3, ASIATICOSIDE, SODIUM HYALURONATE, TOCOPHERYLACETATE, SACCHARIDE ISOMERATE, CERAMIDE 6 II, BENZYL PCA, PEG-4 PROLINELINOLEATE, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, CHOLESTEROL, GLYCINE SOJA PROTEIN (GLYCINE SOJA(SOYBEAN) PROTEIN), CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, CERAMIDE 1, CARBOMER, DISODIUM EDTA,BHT, SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE, XANTHAN GUM, PHENOXYETHANOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE,PARFUM (FRAGRANCE).
Terproline EGF Ingredients: AQUA (WATER), PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER, STEARETH-2, GLYCERIN, STEARETH-21, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, STEARIC ACID, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, DIMETHICONE, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, CETEARYL ETHYLHEXANOATE, SH-OLIGOPEPTIDE-1, ACETYL GLUCOSAMINE, MADECASSOSIDE, CERAMIDE 1, OLIGOPEPTIDE-5, CERAMIDE 3, ASIATICOSIDE, PEG-4 PROLINE LINOLENATE, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, CERAMIDE 6 II, SODIUM HYALURONATE, PEG-4 PROLINE LINOLEATE, C30-45 ALKYL CETEARYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, CHOLESTEROL, BENZYL PCA, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, CARBOMER, PHENOXYETHANOL, DISODIUM EDTA, BENZYL ALCOHOL, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, BHT, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE).
I’ve ran the ingredients through EWG’s Skin Deep and most ingredients fell between 1 and 4.
Their official website was very hard to find. I also found it to be weird that they mention Ayurvedic herbs in the brochure but nowhere else on the internet. But this could be due to an old brochure and new formulations.
I also didn’t like that the Synchroline products were sold for about half the price point on UK website of what I could find in Swedish clinics and web stores! And that they oddly enough did not ship to Sweden?! EDIT: Since this, I’ve seen more and more Synchroline resellers ship to Sweden, however, the shipping cost is quite high, but in the end, it comes off cheaper.
Doctors often advise that something as Cetaphil and Vaseline will do after invasive treatments (however it’s best to invest in a cream with supporting and regenerative properties), but what most recommendations have in common is to be sure that the creams you’ll be using after are fragrance-free. So I got a bit wary to find out that Terproline does include fragrance, however, it’s the very last on the INCI. EDIT: I’ve since bought and tested the Terproline EGF cream, the scent is very mild and has not aggravated any sensitive skin.
Nonetheless, I found information about Synchroline being Cruelty-Free, as I found an FAQ under their AkniCare products, where they say: “None of the products have been tested by us or the manufacturer on animals. This is important to us and the research company behind the products.“
The Terproline creams do contain cholesterol, and so I messaged SkinMed on whether this cholesterol was plant-based. They simply responded that it is vegan-friendly. Though I’d wished for a more elaborating answer than that – Like, what kind of cholesterol is used? – it’s good to know that vegans can support this product.
When the lady at the clinic gave me room to ask questions, I asked her if there are no other creams at the pharmacy she could recommend and also if I could keep using my vegetable oils while my skin is peeling. I didn’t expect much of a reply, and her response wasn’t surprising either, she said: the creams and lotions at the pharmacy are filled with additives and clogging ingredients that wouldn’t nourish my skin properly during this time, and that vegetable oils would ruin/slow down the healing process and no oils should be used.
I couldn’t find any proof to back up her statement that vegetable oils could be bad to use after a chemical peel just that some may make your skin act negatively, kind of the contrary, Kukui nut oil has been used to treat radiation burns, and a chemical peel is much like a burn. I would, however, believe it’s important to use non-comedogenic oils and avoid essential oils. But oils can, in fact, slow the peeling process down and can still feel not moisturizing enough. They don’t need to be avoided, but shouldn’t be relied on.
That pharmacy brands are no good, is quite ignorant to say, when a lot has happened over the years. I took a trip to the pharmacy, I could find at least two creams “dermatologically tested”, free from perfume and additives and that was surprisingly specifically made as a post-treatment and recommendation of chemical peels, like the La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Epidermal Repair cream. While their ingredient list wasn’t as impressed with different peptides and all, I felt they could work just as well. You could simply add a peptide serum or ampoule. However, their position as a cruelty-free* brand is questionable. Next in line is A-Derma Epitheliale H.A that’s actually cruelty-free! Though it has parabens, there’s not enough research to support the claims of the dangers of parabens in the small scale that it is used. There’s also the Epitheliale H.A. DUO Ultra Repair cream, without parabens that are even further listed as a repairing and hydrating cream for post-treatment.
*I do know that many TCA chemical peels have in fact been tested on animals. But it’s very difficult to find any medical treatment that hasn’t; lasers, dermabrasion, you name it, they’ve all been at some point probably tested on animals. I can’t even be sure the Enerpeel falls in this category, it doesn’t have a proper website for me to email them about this issue, and nor does any of my google search confirm if it has been animal tested or not. But I’m hoping not.
Terproline was created and researched in burns unit in treating burn scars, so I have no doubt they know what they’re doing. It’s possibly a very good brand – I haven’t found any negative reviews on it yet – but I find it a bit weird to be recommending a cream with perfume to treat sensitive skin that’s undergone a chemical peel. But I guess mild fragrance is okay?
I kind of feel put off by the lady’s response, making it sound like there are no other creams that could be possibly used, and we know this isn’t true. While money isn’t the issue, these creams are in an okay price range compared to others, but the whole idea that Scandinavians always need to pay more is offensive.
What type of ingredients are good in a post-chemical peel cream?
Can’t find Terproline or Tebiskin products? Here’s a guide on what to look for!
Considering the Terproline-products are made to address aging and damaged skin, I started from there. Looking at anti-aging creams that would contain all or several of these ingredients as well as being adapted for sensitive skin and perfume-free (from the top being most important):
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Different Peptides
- Vitamin E
As your skin starts to peel, you really want something hydrating to prevent cracking, which could form new scarring in itself. Hyaluronic acid seemed to be one of the active ingredients in many of these creams that are made to address chemical peeling-treatments. The Terproline cream had many different Peptides/Amino acids to support new epidermal growth as well as encourage collagen production. B5 and Zinc are found in pharmacy creams in treating irritated and flaky skin, as well as acne.
Is there a more natural alternative?
The creams at the pharmacy were perfume-free but didn’t have the same active key ingredients like EGF and peptides. And during my research for a natural vegan and cruelty-free cream with the same qualities as Terproline, I got very disappointed in the green beauty skincare that is available.
At the moment there’s no green beauty creams that is made specifically to condition the effects of a chemical peel or burn.
Don’t know how huge the demand is, but I wished at least one company addressed this issue, considering a great number of natural brands offer glycolic and enzyme peels.
I even emailed a few brands which seemed to have something similar to what I’m looking for, asking them if they had any creams I could use as post-treatment of a TCA chemical peel. One of them being Elemis (isn’t a complete green brand but uses a lot of natural ingredients) which quickly responded with saying that they have no moisturizer that’s designed for my purpose and so they couldn’t recommend me any product. I kind of applaud their honesty and caution there.
But in my research, I found one* brand that claims to be the first green beauty brand to use peptides in their products, MyChelle Dermaceuticals, which mixes green beauty with science. Their Supreme Polypeptide Cream – which also comes in an unscented version – seemed to have the major things I’m looking for. It has equally great reviews as the Terproline cream too. MyChelle also carries a Deep Repair Cream that’s a bit thicker and contains EGF a bit higher on the list. However, the unscented version has been discontinued. As for these products containing a few vegetable oils, as I said, there’s no proof out there that they can or will slow down the healing process. REVIEW HERE
I did email MyChelle on which of these creams would suit as aftercare of a chemical peel, in which they responded within a day by recommending the Deep Repair Cream, though both could be used.
I’ve always wanted try their products, and right now they’re going through a little re-branding, so many of their old packagings can be found on sale.
* Nourish did just recently come out with four new Peptide serums, but they do not contain the same amount of peptides as the Mychelle Supreme Polypeptide Cream.
My skincare regime after a chemical peel
MyChelle Polypeptide cream (Day) & Deep Repair Cream (Night) + Tebiskin EGF
EDIT/NEW PRODUCTS: Terproline EGF Cream and Terproline Face Cream
SPF: Avéne SPF 50
I ordered both of the MyChelle creams in the unscented version, as I couldn’t decide and both were on sale. And after doing some more research I came over the inci for the Tebiskin EGF cream and the ingredients seemed completely fine. It’s a bit cheaper than Terproline (as well as cheaper than MyChelle creams per ml) and I also found it on sale, so I bought it too and have been using in conjunction with the other creams – I’ll be doing more peels, so better to be stocked up on moisturizers.
Luckily it’s quite cloudy around this time, but for the more sunny days, I use Avéne SPF 50, fragrance-free and for sensitive skin. Avéne isn’t a cruelty-free brand, but I’ve found it hard to find an SPF for sensitive skin coming from a cruelty-free brand that’s readily available for me to purchase directly in the store.
Got any tips on nourishing moisturizer to use as aftercare in a chemical peel?
Leave your tips, thoughts, and experience in the comments below!
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