My love for Shiseido hasn’t exactly been a secret—especially on my Instagram. What began with their sunscreens quickly turned into a full-fledged collection. For the past year, Shiseido has been the cornerstone of my weekly skincare routine. Now that I’ve finished a few key products, it feels like the perfect time to share my thoughts. If you’re curious about their Essential Energy line or wondering why Shiseido deserves more recognition in the luxury beauty world, keep reading.
Shiseido Eudermine Activating Essence
Eudermine, introduced in 1897, holds a special place in Shiseido’s history as one of its very first skincare products. It was a groundbreaking innovation for its time. Created as a skin-softening lotion, it catered to the modern needs of Japanese consumers. This was especially important as they faced increasing exposure to Western lifestyles and environmental changes. The name “Eudermine” comes from the Greek words “eu,” meaning good, and “derma,” meaning skin. This highlights its focus on skin health and vitality. Known as the “red water”, because of its signature crimson bottle, Eudermine quickly became a symbol of luxury and effectiveness in skincare.
Shiseido reformulated Eudermine into the Activating Essence about a year ago. The original formula stayed popular for over a century, praised for its simplicity and effectiveness, with hyaluronic acid as the star ingredient. Despite its minimalist design, it developed a cult following for its ability to hydrate and soften skin.
The new formula retains its heritage while embracing modern advancements. It features two types of hyaluronic acid, vitamin C (in the form of ethyl ascorbic acid), fermented kefir/rice extract, and yuzu extract. These additions not only boost hydration but also introduce brightening and antioxidant benefits, making it a comprehensive skincare product that goes beyond its predecessor’s offerings.
My Experience
From the subtle fragrance to the slightly viscous gel texture, I knew this toner/essence and I would get along. Unfortunately, I never had the chance to try the original formulation for comparison. But considering the added benefits of this updated version, I can’t see why one would miss the old one.
The Eudermine Activating Essence has a slightly gel-like texture, making it easy to apply with your hands and control the amount you use. It glides effortlessly over my skin, and I love that I don’t need a cotton round for application. Afterward, my skin feels refreshed, hydrated, and perfectly prepped for the Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate or any other serum I use.
The formula remains relatively simple, yet it delivers on its intended purpose. I had already been using the Ultimune serum for a few months before adding Eudermine into my routine. However, it wasn’t until I incorporated this essence that I started noticing results. I believe this is because my skin was already in good condition, making visible changes appear much slower or requiring the right prep to maximize results.
As with most toners and essences, it’s hard to pinpoint exactly what it does. However, I do notice it boosts the effectiveness of the products I apply afterward. It contains vitamin C in the form of stable ethyl ascorbic acid, which the Ultimune serum lacks. After introducing it into my routine, I noticed a slight brightening and evening effect on my skin.
I was pleasantly surprised by how long the product lasted. A little goes a long way, and even with daily use, one bottle lasted me several months. This made the price feel much more justified, as I initially thought I’d run through it faster.
Conclusion
If you had asked me five years ago, I wouldn’t have gone near a product like this. I used to believe alcohol in skincare dried out the skin and damaged the barrier. But I’ve been proven wrong time and time again—formulation and proper usage make all the difference.
As long as I’m using Ultimune or another Shiseido product in my routine, I’ll definitely keep circling back to this softener. It works synergistically with other Shiseido products, amplifying their benefits. However, in my opinion, using it alone with non-Shiseido products feels unnecessarily expensive. It won’t work miracles, but if you’re already committed to Shiseido’s skincare line and want extra hydration with a touch of brightening, you’ll want this in your routine. And did I mention the scent? It’s truly divine.
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate
I managed to snag two 75 ml bottles at a great deal, so I’ve had over a year of experience with this serum—and plenty of time to see how it performs.
Shiseido launched the Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate in 2014, and it quickly became the brand’s best-selling product. After 25 years of research, they developed an innovative formula to strengthen the skin’s inner defenses and enhance its natural beauty. In 2018, Shiseido updated the formula to make it even more effective. By 2020, customers were buying a bottle of Ultimune every 6.8 seconds globally. It also earned over 200 beauty awards worldwide, making it the most awarded product in Shiseido’s history.
This all-in-one serum is formulated to:
- Boost your skin’s natural hydration by strengthening the skin barrier.
- Improve and soften the appearance of wrinkles.
- Increase radiance for a more vibrant complexion.
- Provide the skin with antioxidant protection.
Updated Formula 2025: Shiseido continues to refine Ultimune’s formula, keeping it at the forefront of skincare innovation. Just this February (2025), they introduced their fourth generation formulation! The updated formula emphasizes enhanced hydration and protection, featuring new moisturizing agents like Ectoine, Glycerine, Xylitol, Aspergillus culture, and Fermented Camellia extract.
My Experience
The Ultimune serum has a lovely, subtle fragrance, much like the Eudermine. I’m still pleasantly surprised at how gentle and elegant the scents of Shiseido products are. I was expecting something more intense. Instead, Shiseido strikes the perfect balance with just the right amount of fragrance. Honestly, I wish they’d turn the scent of their Energy line into a perfume!
Now, about the results. Shiseido claims that improvements can be felt within a week. For the first few months, I didn’t notice much of a change. Perhaps it’s because my skin is already in good condition. If it hadn’t been, the difference might have been more apparent. It wasn’t until I started incorporating Eudermine into my routine that I began to notice deeper hydration. There was also a slight brightening effect. So, what did this serum actually do for me?
After about six months to a year, I started noticing minor but meaningful improvements. My skin showed signs of deeper resilience. For instance, I experienced fewer breakouts, and the ones I did have disappeared quickly without leaving significant marks. These changes were subtle but undeniable. While I can’t attribute all the credit solely to this serum, the consistency of Shiseido’s products in my routine likely played a significant role.
Shiseido emphasizes how this serum strengthens the skin barrier and boosts resilience. While I didn’t fully understand what that would look like at first, over time, I realized it meant fewer issues, quicker recovery, and skin that felt consistently healthier.
Conclusion
I’m glad I got my hands on two full-sized bottles, which allowed me to test this serum long-term. While I wasn’t always consistent with twice-daily application (as recommended), it remained a staple in my routine for over a year and a half.
How quickly you see results will depend on the starting condition of your skin. If your skin is already healthy, the changes may be subtle, maintaining your skin’s status quo. However, I believe serums like Ultimune provide long-term benefits by keeping the skin healthy, resilient, and hydrated.
The great thing about the Ultimune Power Concentrate serum is that it works well on its own, even when not paired with other Shiseido products. It’s comparable to serums like Lancôme Génifique and Innisfree Green Tea Serum (for anyone looking for other similar types). While the ingredients and formulas differ, the shared goal of enhancing hydration and resilience is a common thread.
While it may not be an immediate game-changer (depending on your skin’s needs), the Ultimune Power Concentrate is a luxurious, reliable serum that deserves a spot in any long-term skincare routine. This serum—or something similar—is a must-have if you want healthy skin. And even though my review may seem a bit outdated with the recent reformulation, I believe my experience still aligns closely with the goal of the new formula.
Shiseido Essential Energy Hydrating Cream
My Christmas wish of 2023 was simple: to add another Shiseido product to my collection. This time, I chose the Essential Energy Hydrating Cream. It comes in two versions—a day cream with SPF 15 and an all-around version without sunscreen. I opted for the one without sunscreen, as I already use Shiseido’s sunscreen, which I’ve reviewed here.
The Essential Energy line was originally introduced with a focus on ReNeura Technology+. This concept, inspired by neuroscience, aimed to “retrain” the skin’s sensory receptors to enhance its responsiveness to skincare. While this technology is no longer part of the updated line, it’s fascinating to see how Shiseido linked the skin and brain. An interesting read, if you ask me.
Today, the line focuses on delivering fast-absorbing, deep hydration while supporting the skin’s natural hyaluronic acid production. Enriched with Ginseng Root Extract and Shiseido’s proprietary Hyaluronic Acid complex, the cream strengthens the moisture barrier and provides 24-hour hydration.
Key Benefits:
- Supports skin’s natural production of Hyaluronic Acid
- Strengthens skin’s moisture barrier
- Said to visibly reduce the appearance of pores and fine lines in 4 weeks
My Experience
I’ve tried my fair share of high-end luxury creams, but Shiseido stands out for me. The Essential Energy Hydrating Cream has redefined what I value in a moisturizer, making me appreciate why spending a little extra can be worth it. The reason? It’s all in the texture and sensorial experience.
Much like the Ultimune and Eudermine, this cream has a beautifully subtle and gentle fragrance that’s incredibly pleasant without being overwhelming. But the real highlight is the texture—it glides effortlessly over the skin, making application a true joy. It leaves my skin feeling soft, with pores and fine lines visibly reduced. A little goes a long way with this moisturizer. Despite using it daily, the 50 ml jar lasted me around 6 months, making the price tag feel more justified. (Using it as a day cream.)
That said, it wasn’t without its challenges during the Swedish winter. While it promises to boost hydration over time, I found it wasn’t quite hydrating enough for the harsh, cold months. I came across a reviewer who wrote, “After I put it on, it felt very ‘powdery’ on my skin. I have combination skin, and it didn’t moisturize my dry cheeks but made my T-zone more oily.” I can relate to this experience, especially during winter, when my skin craved a richer, more nourishing formula.
This line is designed for younger skin—think mid-20s to late-30. This is reflected in the cream’s lightweight nature. While pairing it with Eudermine and Ultimune helped mitigate hydration issues, I found myself wishing for a more nourishing version in this line. It would be great if Shiseido developed an enriched formula—similar to what’s available in Shiseido’s Benefiance and Vital Perfection lines.
Side Note: I also tried the Waso Sublime Moisturizer, which is aimed at teens and early 20s. And I was surprised by how much thicker and more hydrating it felt compared to the Essential Energy cream! However, the price difference is evident—the Waso Sublime doesn’t have the same elegant, sensorial experience that the Energy Cream offers. But if you’re looking for a thicker and nourishing formula from Shiseido that doesn’t cost $$$, give the Waso Sublime Moisturizer a try!
Conclusion
While the Essential Energy Hydrating Cream didn’t feel as hydrating as promised during the coldest winter months, it still made it to my heart with its fantastic scent, texture, and finish. A little goes a long way, and I love how easy it is to just grab a refill when I run out—keeping it both practical and sustainable.
That said, I’m currently eyeing a few other Shiseido creams like the White Lucent, Benefiance, and the new Bio-Performance moisturizer. I’m curious to see how they compare. But I wouldn’t hesitate to circle back to this one for its lightweightness and effectiveness during the rest of the year.
Bonus Review:
Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Eye Concentrate
While we’re at it, I thought I’d include a brief review of the Ultimune Power Infusing Eye Concentrate. I introduced this product into my routine a little later and have been testing it for about six months now.
This is a lightweight eye gel marketed as an eye serum. Admittedly, I find this a bit confusing—should it be used alone or layered under a more traditional eye cream? According to Shiseido’s Q&A section, the latter seems to be the recommended approach.
I’ve experimented with both methods and generally prefer to use it on its own, ensuring I pat a bit of excess face moisturizer on top for extra hydration. This seems to work for now, but as I get older I see myself using it in conjunction with an eye cream. I find the Shiseido Ultimune eye concentrate to be one of the few eye products that successfully brightens my eye area (as much as an eye cream can). The silky texture helps concealer apply smoothly and instantly softens the appearance of fine lines. Over time, it’s noticeably improved the elasticity of my eye area. While it won’t completely stop the signs of aging, it does a wonderful job of making the area look as youthful as possible.
I’ll admit, I used to think eye creams were unnecessary, more of a luxury than a need. But since turning 30, I’ve started to see their benefits firsthand. Overall, this is a lovely eye product to consider adding in your twenties or as a booster to complement your favorite eye cream.
Shiseido Brand Summary
I never set out to make Shiseido my go-to luxury brand, yet product after product, it has won me over without leaving me deeply disappointed. While there may be other brands with more cutting-edge formulas in the same price range, Shiseido feels distinctly underrated. Despite being one of the oldest skincare brands, with a legacy that has stood the test of time, it doesn’t seem to get the recognition it deserves—especially on social media.
Perhaps this is because Shiseido caters to a more mature demographic, particularly consumers closer to forty and beyond, at least in Western markets. Or maybe it’s the brand’s understated, “word-of-mouth” appeal. Either way, Shiseido offers something unique: an ability to connect across generations. It’s a brand that both my mother and I can enjoy and discuss, creating a shared experience that few other skincare lines offer.
One of Shiseido’s standout features is its approach to skincare by decade—an idea that might sound outdated but remains surprisingly effective. It builds a sense of continuity, allowing users to grow with the brand. I look forward to transitioning into their Vital Perfection range in my mid-forties, even though nothing stops me from using it now. This multi-generational focus sets Shiseido apart in a market flooded with brands targeting only a single age group.
What happens when that target audience ages and seeks more support? Many younger brands fail to offer that progression, which is why I’ve started moving away from budget-friendly options toward luxury skincare. I’m no longer just looking for hydration—I want more support, more care, and yes, perhaps even a little placebo.
Shiseido has quietly become a staple in my skincare journey, not because of flashy marketing or overhyped promises, but because it delivers. It’s a brand I trust to grow with me, offering thoughtful, effective products that support my skin through every stage of life. And that’s something I truly value.
