Looking back, I’ve had many regrets when it comes to my skin and trying to clear my acne. I recently turned 33 years old. And while I still have much to learn, I feel like it’s time to share some of my lessons. It’s been a long decade journey to clear skin, marked by numerous mistakes in treating my acne. This article has been a long time coming; it should’ve been published in 2022, a celebration of when I first delved into beauty blogging back in 2012.
While some of the points I’m highlighting may seem like common sense, the beauty landscape is ever-evolving. Trends cycle in and out, only to resurface. I sense that Green Beauty or some form of it will captivate Gen Z and Alpha–much like it did with us millennials and Gen X. History tends to repeat itself. There’s a unique impact in your impressionable 20s, where a single sensible voice can rescue you from unnecessary and sometimes harmful aspirations. I invite you to laugh at my foolish mistakes and hopefully share them with someone who needs to hear them.
Check out part 2!
What I Wish I Hadn’t Done in My 20s for My Acne
Skincare Regret #1: Bought into everything “anti-acne”-care and not focusing on my skin type
My beginnings into beauty blogging began with a series of trials with various anti-acne kits. While some showed promise, most proved ineffective, and some truly made things worse. Today’s teenagers and young adults are fortunate in this regard; skincare marketed towards them tends to be less drying and more mindful of the skin barrier and microbiome. Additionally, (for good and for bad) the accessibility of effective active skincare has vastly improved compared to when I first started. Looking back, over-the-counter retinols were once considered a luxury reserved for those with substantial disposable income. Furthermore, they were often marketed primarily as anti-aging solutions rather than remedies for acne-prone skin, rendering them overlooked as potential acne treatments.
What I should’ve done instead
I should’ve paid more attention to my skin type instead of making my skin issue my top priority. My skincare routine should have been more adaptable, focusing on hydration and strengthening the skin barrier rather than solely targeting acne. I wanted everything geared towards acne-prone skin when, perhaps, my skin issues were exacerbated by dryness and sensitivity.
Another regret I have is discontinuing the use of products that actually worked. One example is Dermalogica’s Medibac (now Active Clearing) products. Despite being formulated for oily skin, it had a remarkably positive impact on my skin! Looking back, I would have continued using their clearing wash and explored their range of products suitable for normal to dry skin. Unfortunately, I veered away from their products and delved into natural beauty alternatives instead… Which takes us to…
Skincare Regret #2: Going down the green beauty rabbit hole and fearing “chemicals”
During the period from 2013 to 2016, I found myself deeply immersed in the world of green beauty. However, this journey proved to be detrimental to my skin and remains a regrettable chapter in my skincare journey.
Being swayed by the allure of natural products, I neglected important aspects of skincare. Despite my intentions to prioritize my skin’s health, my misguided approach resulted in unintended consequences. Had I not gone this route I’m 99% sure I’d be left with less acne scarring.
I fell victim to greenwashing, neglecting proper sunscreen usage and favoring natural exfoliants that carried a higher risk of irritation. I developed a skin sensitivity towards essential oils, exacerbating my skin’s condition. Relying solely on oils and butters for hydration left my skin dehydrated, lacking the essential moisture needed for the skin to actually heal itself. Despite the perceived benefits of natural products, they disrupted my skin barrier and complicated my acne journey, which made it harder to pinpoint what exactly was causing my acne.
In my quest to avoid potentially harmful ingredients, I unwittingly hindered my skin’s natural healing process. For example, I avoided silicones in skincare, believing they clog pores, when in fact, they do not. Silicones are even widely used to minimize scar tissue. Additionally, relying solely on oils to ‘moisturize’ my face didn’t effectively support my skin’s natural ability to heal itself. Ironically, it hindered it.
What I wish I had done instead
Looking back, I realize the importance of maintaining a balanced approach to skincare. Rather than dismissing conventional products altogether, I should have prioritized selecting high-quality options suited to my skin’s specific needs. Unfortunately, I shifted from addressing my skin concerns to exclusively using a niche line of products, mistakenly believing they couldn’t cause harm. While some good things came out of my dabble into green beauty – like treating my skin with kindness and using gentle, hydrating products – I’m sure I’d eventually have gotten there without destroying the health of my skin.
Skincare Regret #3: Trying to build up a tolerance to use chemical exfoliants/actives daily
So once I got out of my greenwashing bubble, I was still very impressionable. And one of the trends during 2017-2018 was chemical exfoliants. Now, old-school skinlogic tells you not to exfoliate your skin more than 1-3 times a week, less if your skin is sensitive or dry. However, social media and new brands disregarded these guidelines, advocating for daily use. Most instructions still today tell you to ‘build up to daily use’, but in some cases, even twice daily!
Well, it didn’t take long until I yet again threw off my skin balance. This time by trying to keep up with the cool kids and sprinting my chemical exfoliant use to daily (and sometimes twice a day!). Not to mention, while also incorporating retinoids into my routine. Unfortunately, this led to an imbalance in my skin, resulting in the very texture issues exfoliants were meant to address. Despite my efforts, my acne persisted, and my skin struggled to heal optimally. I wasn’t alone in experiencing this, as numerous articles on the topic of disrupted skin barriers and how to address them emerged.
What I wish I had done instead
I should’ve listened to my skin’s cues and not aspired to follow others’ skincare routines blindly. However, navigating the overwhelming amount of information can be challenging. When every influencer with flawless skin touts daily use of Biologique Recherche P50 (the 1970s formula), it’s easy to believe it’s the new norm. Yet, just because a certain regimen works for one person doesn’t mean it’s universally beneficial.
Returning to the old-school rhetoric, of only exfoliating once a week has proven transformative for my skin. It’s now the healthiest it’s ever been, free from bumpy textures. Aside from acne scarring, the healthy areas are glass-skin-smooth. I believe beauty bloggers and content creators, should exercise more responsibility in their recommendations. What works for one individual may not be suitable for everyone. Therefore, promoting self-awareness and acknowledging that their habits may be extreme for some is crucial.